2024 – Japan – “Bullet at 60”

Visiting all the original stations on the Tokaido Shinkansen

“The Bullet at 60”

Most people have heard of the 12 Chinese animal zodiac signs (rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, rooster, dog and pig) that repeat on a 12-year cycle. Less well known, perhaps, is the system of five elements (wood, fire, earth, metal and water) that combine with the animals to create 60 possible variations. People born in the same animal years are said to have slightly different characteristics based on the elements.

2024 is the year of the wood dragon. The previous year of the wood dragon was 1964 and since then, at 12 year intervals, we have had the fire dragon, earth dragon, metal dragon and water dragon. Finally in 2024, having also gone through all 60 possible combinations of animal and element, we are back to the wood dragon. This explains why in Japan special significance is placed on a person’s 60^th birthday: the full “5 x 12” cycle has been completed. In Japanese this is known as Kan Reki, derived from the words for “return” and “calendar”.

As well as being my own “Kan Reki” year, 2024 also marks the 60^th anniversary of the opening of Japan’s Tokaido Shinkansen. The line links Tokyo with Osaka (515km / 320 miles) and its launch in October 1964 was a key landmark in railway history. Although extensively modernised and speeded up, and now on its sixth generation of rolling stock, the line still performs the same task today as it was built for: speeding millions of passengers each year between the largest cities in Japan in safety and comfort.

IMG_E9026 — JR Central’s “Tokaido Shinkansen 60th” logo (fair use)

The Plan

I am very lucky to have already travelled on the Tokaido Shinkansen many times, both when I lived in Japan (1987-1994) and on frequent visits to the country since. Nevertheless, to celebrate this important milestone, I have decided to make another special trip along the whole route.

Ignoring the Shinkansen’s reputation for speed, I have decided to try to see a bit more of the system by slowing down. My plan is to spend the best part of a day travelling from Tokyo to Shin Osaka mainly using the “Kodama” stopping trains and making short 30-minute visits to each one of the original 12 stations along the way.

Preparation

In order to prepare for my journey, I have been re-reading the English language booklet “The New Tokaido Line” which was published at the time of the launch of the Shinkansen and intended as a guide for foreign visitors to Japan.

I have also rewatched the Japanese language film “Tokaido Shinkansen” which was released just after the line opened in 1964. The 50 minute film documents the history of the construction of the line and includes scenes of the first trains in service.

Finally, I have paid a visit to the SC Maglev and Railway Park in Nagoya. This fascinating museum is home to many of the different types of trains that have worked on the Tokaido Shinkansen over the past 60 years. It also has a collection of other unique exhibits that tell the story of how the line was developed and how it operates today.

My Journey

I made my “Kan Reki” trip on a cold day in late February 2024. I started out from Tokyo just after 8:30 am and reached Shin-Osaka just before 4pm. Click on the links below to view the details of all the station visits. Each stop is linked to the next one, so the whole journey from Tokyo to Shin-Osaka can be followed in sequence.

Start the trip here > Tokyo