Train to Sekondi


Takoradi Station

It took me about forty minutes  to get the 2.5 km to the station. The station, understandably given its history, was located close to the harbour.  The surrounding area, now encompassing several beaches, was full of hotels in the higher price range.

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Just across  from the station was a little square containing a monument to Sir Frederick Gordon Guggisberg (1869-1930), the Canadian-born Governor of the Gold Coast  (1919-1927) who was instrumental in creating the deep water harbour at Takoradi and expanding the railway.

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The station building itself was quite attractive.  I ventured inside to try to find information on whether the train would run. There seemed to be no one around to ask. IMG_1350

I found a route map on the wall which confirmed what I already knew.  The passenger service operated from here to Sekondi via a reversal at Kojokrom, a combined distance of less than 10km.

It was about 2pm in the afternoon and as I had initially expected the train might run back to Sekondi in the evening,  I had been hoping to find it stabled in the platform waiting to return. But the station was deserted.

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I walked all the way down to the end of the platform. The rails seemed a little rusty from disuse.  I took this to be a less than encouraging sign.

Yet, in complete contrast to what I had found in Accra, the ballast, the buffer stops, the sleepers, everything looked first class.  There were two platform faces and over to the left there were some sidings, presumably for train storage.

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This line was rehabilitated in 2016 when the service was renewed and reequipped. It is part of a plan to modernise the whole line all the way to Kumasi.  The project calls for a standard gauge line, but initially the railway was rebuilt using the original 3ft 6 inch gauge.

Nevertheless, as I looked down at the sleepers I could see that they were planning ahead.  They were of a dual gauge variety.  The indents where the track could be moved over to widen it, were already visible.

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As I walked back towards the station building I met an official who confirmed my worse fear that the service would not be running today.  Then he mentioned that they were evaluating the train, and I could go for a ride to Kojokrom if I wanted.  Better still, the train would be along in a few minutes.

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A Train Ride

He was true to his word: after about a 10 minute wait, a 4-car diesel unit painted in the bright colours of the Ghanaian flag appeared. I jumped on board, and we set off.

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The little Chinese-built train was pretty attractive inside, although the air conditioning was set a bit too low.  We trundled along at a sedate pace passing a couple of little halts along the way.  Soon we were at Kojokrom.

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The two platforms here seemed to be waiting for better more intensive services to come in the future. They were certainly overkill for the current single daily service.

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I thanked my hosts and, having decided to continue to Sekondi under my own steam, flagged down a taxi.

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Sekondi Station

The station building at Sekondi had also gone under a lot of development in the past 10 years and like the rest of the little system it looked ready to play its part in the reinvigorated Ghana railway network.

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Sekondi

From the station, I walked the short distance to the centre of Sekondi.  It was obvious from the buildings that this was much the older settlement of the twin town.

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I climbed out of the town centre to get a view of the harbour, the large Ghanaian Navy base and  Sekondi castle.

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The castle here was originally a Dutch possession, built as a lodge, it was reconstructed in the early 1700s to become the much more fortified castle we see today.

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After the British takeover in the 1870s it was used as a lighthouse. It was nearing the closing time of 4:30pm, so the guard agreed to waive the usual entry fee.

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I concluded my visit to Sekondi with a look at the fish statue, also known as “Enam Ase”, it is a symbol of the importance of the fishing industry here.  It was an easy place to get an Uber and using the 8km road direct along the coast, I was soon back at my starting point: Takoradi station.

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Drunk as a Goat

I had intended to stay around the beach harbour area for a beer or two and perhaps have a bite to eat in one of the beach hotel restaurants.

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My first stop was the Drunken Goat, an established pub, a few blocks away from Takoradi station.  I had a bottle of Club there whilst talking to the two female bar staff as they changed shift.  Their experiences of living in Takoradi, were generally good, although they both harboured a dream to emigrate to the USA.

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My next stop would have been Vienna City Beach, a place where I thought I could get a snack as I watched the sun go down.  In the end I never got there, I spied a little local bar, little more than a shack with a few tables, and decided to have a little stop over.

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I got in with the little crowd, the landlady and a couple of her local customers, and spent the rest of a lovely evening chatting and exchanging stories.  I even met a local guy who had been born on the same day as myself back in 1964.

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Eventually, I called an Uber and returned to the Airbnb, still not having eaten anything.  There weren’t really any rich pickings at the little shop next door: I ended up with a loaf of bread and a tube of chocolate paste.

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Continue  = Tro Tro to Cape Coast